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Himalayan travel guides from the road

Practical tips on permits, routes, seasons and cabs, written by Dushyant Thakur and the Nomadic Rentals team after 16 years of driving the Northern Himalayas.

Manali, Solang and the snow points on the way to Rohtang Pass
Permits

Rohtang Pass Permit: How It Works and How to Get One

Dushyant Thakur5 min read

Rohtang Pass, at 3,978 m and about 51 km from Manali, is the most popular snow point near Manali. Because of its fragile environment, the number of vehicles allowed up each day is capped, and every vehicle needs a permit.

Why a permit is needed

The National Green Tribunal limits daily traffic to Rohtang Pass to protect the glaciers and meadows around it. Permits are issued per vehicle, not per person, through the Himachal Pradesh government's online Rohtang permit system. Each permit is valid for one vehicle on one date.

How to get a Rohtang permit

  1. Decide your travel date. Permits are released for specific dates and can sell out in May and June.
  2. The permit is issued against the vehicle's registration number, so your taxi operator usually applies for it.
  3. On the day, the permit is checked at the Gulaba barrier on the way up.
Booking with Nomadic Rentals?The vehicle permit is included in our Rohtang Pass fare. Book a day or two in advance and we apply for it for you.

Important rules to know

  • Closed on Tuesdays: Rohtang is closed to tourist vehicles every Tuesday for maintenance.
  • Season: the pass usually opens in May or June once the snow is cleared, and closes after the first heavy snowfall, often in November.
  • Start early: leave Manali around 6–7 am to avoid long queues at the barrier.
  • Weather: the administration can close the road at short notice in bad weather.

No permit? Try these instead

On Tuesdays, or when permits are sold out, Gulaba and Kothi are snow points on the same road that do not need a Rohtang permit. You can also drive through the Atal Tunnel to Sissu in the Lahaul Valley, which does not require a Rohtang permit either.

What to carry

  • Warm layers, gloves and a cap, even in summer
  • Sunglasses and sunscreen for the snow glare
  • Snow suits and boots can be rented at Kothi or Marhi on the way
  • Water and snacks, as food options at the top are limited
Dushyant Thakur
Dushyant ThakurCEO, Nomadic Rentals · 16 years planning journeys across the Northern Himalayas
Green Manali valley under snow peaks
Planning

Best Time to Visit Manali: A Month-by-Month Guide

Dushyant Thakur6 min read

Manali is a year-round destination, but each season opens and closes different roads. Choosing the right month depends on whether you want snow, high passes, green valleys or quiet roads.

Manali through the year

MonthsWeatherBest for
March – JunePleasant days, cool nightsRohtang Pass, Atal Tunnel, Solang, family trips
July – SeptemberMonsoon, green valleysLahaul and Spiti (rain shadow), Leh highway
October – NovemberClear skies, crisp airPhotography, quieter roads, Spiti before winter
December – FebruaryCold, snowfallSnow at Solang and Sethan, winter sports

Summer (March to June)

This is Manali's busiest season. Rohtang Pass usually opens in May or June, and the Atal Tunnel road to Sissu stays busy with families. Book cabs and Rohtang permits early, especially for weekends and school holidays.

Monsoon (July to September)

The Kullu valley turns deep green, but heavy rain can cause landslides on the Kullu–Manali and Mandi highway. Interestingly, Lahaul and Spiti sit in a rain shadow and stay mostly dry, so this is a good time for Chandratal, Kaza and the Manali–Leh highway. Keep a buffer day in your plan.

Autumn (October to November)

Our favourite season. Skies are clear, crowds thin out and the apple harvest is in full swing. High roads to Spiti and Leh start closing by late October or November, so plan those trips early in the season.

Winter (December to February)

Snowfall turns Manali, Solang Valley and Sethan white. Rohtang is closed, and the Atal Tunnel can close after heavy snow. For snow on icy roads, choose a 4X4 or an experienced driver with snow chains.

Tip from DushyantFor a first visit, late May to June or October gives you the widest choice of trips with the most stable weather.
Dushyant Thakur
Dushyant ThakurCEO, Nomadic Rentals · 16 years planning journeys across the Northern Himalayas
Lahaul valley near Sissu
Day trips

Atal Tunnel and Sissu: The Perfect Day Trip from Manali

Dushyant Thakur4 min read

The Atal Tunnel, opened in 2020, is about 9 km long and runs under the Pir Panjal range at roughly 3,000 m. It connects the Manali side with the Lahaul Valley all year, except after very heavy snowfall.

The route

From Manali, the road climbs past Palchan and Solang to the tunnel's south portal near Dhundi. After the tunnel you come out into Lahaul, and Sissu is a short drive along the Chandra river. The whole trip is about 40 km each way, and a relaxed day trip takes 6–7 hours.

What to see

  • Atal Tunnel: one of the longest highway tunnels at this altitude in the world
  • Sissu waterfall and lake: a tall waterfall above the village and a small lake by the road
  • Chandra river views: wide valley views very different from green Manali
  • Snow: from late autumn to spring, the Lahaul side often has snow when Manali does not

Do you need a permit?

No Rohtang permit is needed for the Atal Tunnel or Sissu. This makes it the best alternative when Rohtang permits are sold out or on Tuesdays, when Rohtang is closed.

Good to knowTraffic near the tunnel can be heavy on weekends in summer. Start by 8 am and keep warm clothes handy, as Lahaul is colder and windier than Manali.
Dushyant Thakur
Dushyant ThakurCEO, Nomadic Rentals · 16 years planning journeys across the Northern Himalayas
Spiti Valley road
Road trips

Spiti Valley from Manali: Chandratal, Kunzum Pass and Kaza

Dushyant Thakur6 min read

Spiti is a high-altitude cold desert of monasteries, fossil villages and some of the highest roads in India. From Manali, the road crosses the Atal Tunnel and Kunzum Pass to reach Kaza, about 200 km away.

The route from Manali to Kaza

  1. Manali to Gramphu through the Atal Tunnel
  2. Gramphu to Batal along the Chandra river, on a rough road with water crossings
  3. Batal to Kunzum Pass, the gateway to Spiti, with views of the Bara Shigri glacier area
  4. Kunzum to Losar and Kaza, the main town of Spiti

The drive takes 7–8 hours. The road is usually open from June to October, depending on snow.

Chandratal Lake

Chandratal, the "moon lake", sits at about 4,300 m near Batal. Most travellers stay one night in the camps near the lake, either as a 1 night · 2 day trip from Manali or as the first stop on a longer Spiti tour.

Places to see around Kaza

  • Key Monastery, Spiti's most famous gompa
  • Kibber and the Chicham bridge over a deep gorge
  • Langza, known for its fossils and Buddha statue
  • Hikkim post office and Komic village

How many days?

Plan at least 2 nights · 3 days for Kaza, or 5–7 days for a full Spiti circuit that returns via Kinnaur and Shimla.

Which car?The Batal stretch is rough. We recommend an SUV, MUV or 4X4 with an experienced driver. Go slow on the first day to adjust to the altitude.
Dushyant Thakur
Dushyant ThakurCEO, Nomadic Rentals · 16 years planning journeys across the Northern Himalayas
Deepak Tal on the Manali to Leh highway
Road trips

Manali to Leh by Road: Route, Passes and Night Halts

Dushyant Thakur5 min read

The Manali–Leh highway is one of the great road journeys of the world: about 430 km through Lahaul, the Zanskar range and the high plains of Ladakh.

The route

Via the Atal Tunnel, the road passes Sissu, Keylong and Jispa, then climbs over Baralacha La to Sarchu. From there it crosses the Gata Loops, Nakee La, Lachulung La, the More Plains and Tanglang La before descending to Upshi and Leh.

When is it open?

The highway usually opens from June to October. Exact dates depend on snow clearing by the Border Roads Organisation, so check before you travel.

Plan two days

  • Day 1: Manali to Jispa or Sarchu (night halt)
  • Day 2: Jispa or Sarchu to Leh

Jispa is lower and more comfortable for sleeping; Sarchu is higher and colder, so it shortens day 2 but is harder on the body.

Altitude tips

  • Drink plenty of water and avoid alcohol on the way
  • Do not rush; rest a day in Leh before going higher
  • Carry warm clothes, sunscreen and basic medicines
Book a cab for LehWe run Manali–Leh trips in SUVs, MUVs and Tempo Travellers with drivers who know the route. Ask us for a one-way or round-trip quote.
Dushyant Thakur
Dushyant ThakurCEO, Nomadic Rentals · 16 years planning journeys across the Northern Himalayas
SUV cab on a snowy mountain road near Manali
Planning

Which Cab Should You Book for Manali and the Mountains?

Dushyant Thakur4 min read

The right vehicle makes a mountain trip safer and far more comfortable. Here is how we match travellers with cabs, based on group size, luggage and the roads you plan to drive.

Cab typeGroupBest forFrom
HatchbackUp to 3Couples, local sightseeing₹2,700/day
SedanUp to 3Airport drops, one-way cabs₹2,800/day
SUV4–5Families, Rohtang, Sissu₹3,700/day
MUV5Long tours, extra comfort₹5,000/day
4X43–5Snow, Spiti, rough roads₹5,500/day
Tempo Traveller9–26Groups and families together₹7,000/day
Urbania9–16Premium group travel₹10,000/day

For local sightseeing

A hatchback or sedan is all you need for Manali town, Hadimba Temple, Vashisht and Old Manali, and for airport transfers on paved roads.

For snow points and high passes

For Rohtang, Atal Tunnel and Sissu, an SUV or MUV gives you more ground clearance and comfort. In winter snow, or on the rough Batal road to Spiti and Chandratal, a 4X4 like the Thar, Jimny or Gypsy is the safest choice.

For groups

Groups of 9 or more save money and stay together in a Tempo Traveller (9+1 to 26+1) or a Force Urbania with pushback seats.

All inclusiveOur per-day rates include fuel, vehicle permit, driver DA, taxes and tolls. See the full fleet →
Dushyant Thakur
Dushyant ThakurCEO, Nomadic Rentals · 16 years planning journeys across the Northern Himalayas
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